July 27, 2015

The Wearable Aurora Muslins

This is one of my (kind of) wearable Aurora muslins. The first is from an adorable fabric with no recovery. Why do they even sell these fabrics? Sigh.
This one is sewn straight from the pattern. I just graded between three different sizes for the bust, waist, and hips. I ended up taking out a LOT of width in the hem. Then after I wore it I took out even more and when I re-hemmed it that time the sewing machine revolted and ate the fabric 3 times (!)
once with tragic results so I'll have a small darn in the back. It is tight at the armholes, the shoulder straps are too wide set, and it's out of a fabric that doesn't wear well so it's going to be a pajama top.

For the second version (picture coming soon) I scooped out some of the armhole at the bottom and the front (too binding in the first version) and moved the straps in so they're closer to my neck. I think I could go even closer to get them exactly where I like them. Also, it needs a sway back adjustment but it's good enough that I cut it out in a few inexpensive pieces of jersey I had. Obviously I need more upper back width but I didn't notice until I took a picture of the rear. Doh! I will do a third version with closer straps and a sway back and see if I can get it perfect but after sewing it so many times (there was a totally failed muslin in between 1 and 2) I'm kind of bored and want to move on. The second one is from the cotton-poly heart knit I got last month. It's ok fabric but not great. Cute but a doesn't breath that well and it's recovery is not bad but not great.

Next on the sewing machine is Maria Denmark's free t shirt with cut on sleeves (or kimono sleeves as they say these days). The first version was totally wrong for me so I changed the shape and size of the neckline, lengthened the sleeves slightly and did a sway back adjustment (and I think I took in the side seams at the bust and sleeves because it didn't have negative ease like it was supposed to). The neck was way too small after that but I was able to cut it down and make what I thought was a wearable muslin. However, I forgot to add back the length when I did the sway back adjustment so it was way short in the back. In order to make it an actual wearable muslin I decided to put a slit in the back so the shortness serves a purpose and with one thing and another that did not work out. The neckband is wonky (partly because I just got sloppy with my work and partly because I'm bad at v-necks but they're my favorite to wear so I keep trying). Also I need to lengthen the sleeves on the next version because I like the length before they are hemmed. And then there is my machine which hates all stretch stitches. I can not make them work for love nor money. Especially the twin needle hem. I've tried adjusting everything in all combos but I can't get the bobbin thread to do the zigzag that makes it a stretchy stitch. Can I just get a cover stitch machine?! The most reliable thing to do is just sew a zigzag but I don't like the way that looks. Once I do another muslin for this shirt I'm going to sew it in final fabric and then move on...

...to Holyburn in this crazy crane fabric (quilting cotton) I've had for years. I never mind taping together digital patterns but this is such a large one it's making me rethink that. It's taking forever!

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