June 23, 2015

Sorbetto no. 2 - no pictures because it turned out to be a wadder :-(

I'm not sure it should really be called Sorbetto at this point. That is where I started but the only similarities between this blouse and Sorbetto is that they're both sleeveless. I even changed the shape and position of the shoulder straps so that's not quite the same either. This version is made from the Liberty Lawn masquerading as pink floral voile from Mood. 

I drafted princess seams based on the darts I created in the last version. These were almost perfect right off the bat! I cut the neck into a more V shape and after examining the button placket of a RTW dress, drafted a placket for this number. I did the kind where it's stitched on the out side then folded under and stitched on the inside. Not sure how this is usually done but it works. Of course, not having read about best practices for buttons I didn't interface the placket. Oh well, next time. I also made the button holes horizontal which of course means they slide to the side. I was like "this is crazy!" and could not seem to come up with the obvious solution which is to sew them vertically. When I examined a RTW shirt vertical is the way they were sewn. Since then I've seen a few patterns where they're horizontal so I don't know what I'm "supposed" to do! 

The back has a deep yoke with princess seams and then a split and overlapped lower back. After much fiddling I realized I needed to cut the lower back on the bias otherwise I was going to end up with more darts or seams. It's not quite perfect but I like it very much! I got tired of futzing with it. I could probably achieve a better fit by further tinkering with the angle and orientation of those panels but maybe that can happen next time. I also decided after wearing it that I didn't need the overlap. I'm not really concerned about showing my lower back and I think it would look better if it were just a slit. Next version.

The back panels have a weird curve at the bottom corners. I thought I was going to love that but not only was it very difficult to hem, I'm not crazy about how it looks. Oh well. Also, the hem is ridiculous. I used my narrow hem foot, which is a bad idea on curves to begin with and I'm bad with it on straight lines in any case so not sure what I was thinking! Next time I'm going to finish the hem with bias tape folded to the inside like I did with the neck and shoulder seams. I think that makes a very neat finish and one I can't mess up easily.

I have got to stop cutting apart my perfectly fitted muslins to pattern and instead rip the stitches. Twice now I've made a beautiful muslin and then thought to myself "that's a lot of seam to rip. I know, I'll just cut along the stitching lines and then add back the seam allowance!". This is not a good idea. Probably someone better than me can make this work but there is something about the way I do this that ends up with some pieces having slightly weird shapes which confuses me when I use that as my final pattern. So next time I vow to rip the stitches, trace the cutting lines and then make sure the seam allowances are correct from there!

In spite of all my criticism I really do like this blouse.

Weeks later: So, I wore this shirt all day and I'm not crazy about the fit. It mostly fine while standing although I think there is some issue with the fit in the shoulders because it feels like it hangs funny. Maybe I cut it off grain, not sure. Also, my waist measurement grows when I sit (some of yall know what I'm talking about) so the ease which is ample while standing is not comfy while sitting. 

I've been looking into strategies for dealing with this so that I don't have a tent while standing. Inverted pleats, gathers, and shirring have been suggested. Kind of bummed that my lovely Liberty lawn ended up in a shirt I don't want to wear but that's the way it goes. That's why I haven't been buying expensive fabrics for all this educational sewing I'm doing. In fact there was a sale on knits and since I just made a successful wearable muslin of Aurora and needed more knit for other muslins... but more on that later.

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